Dragon Traveler

One Year Ago

2009-09-18T06:51:00.000-07:00

One year ago, I was arriving in New Delhi...an adventure of two years planning just beginning. I have been home a bit over nine months and am awed by where I am in my life. I am unemployed - believe me, had someone "told" me I would not find a job fairly quickly upon returning, I might not have come back so soon. I was working at a challenging placement, appreciated for what I brought every day, and while the country and city were difficult at times, I think I would have stayed. Other options might have included other travel in India, more time in Japan, another CCS placement in another country, etc. etc. etc.

Instead, I have written countless resumes and cover letters, been told "no thanks" many times. I never dreamed how hard this would be on my perspective of myself. Coming out of India, I was on top of the world. I felt valuable and strong. I truly felt I had "something" to give to an employer. But no...it can be hard for a jack-of-all-trades.

On the plus side, I volunteer at Food Lifeline, Driftwood Players (in the office and the lighting work I do love). These are "gap" fillers. Unfortunately, I have gained weight back (not all) that I lost last year...I have pretty much had to give up yoga (other than a home practice), massage, Weight Watchers rejoin, and many other "perks". I bring in a little money cleaning house for a friend. It helps pay the COBRA. I just finished Camp Logistics Crew for the Breast Cancer 3-day in Seattle (hard but gratifying work)

The list of "stuff" I have not done in nine months is longer than I would like. I have not worked on photographs much (the art end), read less than I expected, not gotten into a strong "sitting" practice, and have spent way way too much time on Facebook and Twitter. They have become my social connections where I can keep track of people I worked with in India. Those young people have gone on to school, more travels (soooo jealous)and their lives. I have "mentored" several new CCS'rs and prospective volunteers and followed their journeys in India.

So, now what? I will celebrate my 10th anniversary early this October, I am planning on rejoining Weight Watchers and will start on some acupuncture for my sore places soon. I am taking a few yoga classes and will add that back with or without a job. The next few months will focus on self care and self improvement. Yes, I will still be looking for a job, but I am going to get off the computer and start appearing in offices and talking to people. I really can't sell what I have to offer on a piece of paper.

My perfect job would be about 32 hours a week, probably with either a nonprofit or a daycare center. I want to make things better in some way for someone somewhere - no matter how small. The thought of a cubicle for 40 hours is not where I want to be - though I would take it right now for the money and skill building it might offer. I prefer to be up and about. Travel- oh how I wish- maybe someday again - Peru is now calling - Machu Pichu; Australia - I have several people living there and would love to see this interesting land (along with New Zealand).

So, somewhat battered and bowed - I will go on...I always do...India was a miracle in my life and I have to find a way, on the bad days, to believe there are more adventures for me. What I am good at is "trying again tomorrow". It is harder some days than others, but I will keep trying. I am again wearing my bracelet "Leap and the net will appear" - I just don't know where or when.

Wish me luck!

Readjustment and Moving On

2009-01-04T11:31:00.000-08:00

It has now been two weeks. I no longer try to get into the car on the left passenger side, back seat. I don't wake up in my own bedroom and not "know" where I am. Grocery stores do not seem "too full" but I am happier and more at ease in a local mixed-culture grocery - less stuff, familiar names, etc. Unfortunately, I have yet to find "Hide and Seek" cookies or burfi (though I have found a store a long way south in Kent that specializes in Indian sweets. Western food still seems bland and I do make some "out-of-the-box" Indian food.

I miss the color, the warmth (I am always cold right now), and the feeling of belonging. Many friends ask if I am going back...I really can't answer that...there is so much of the world I want to see. What I can say is that just being a tourist probably won't work well for me. I have seen a country more in-depth and would love to have that experience again, whether in India or one of many countries on my "bucket list".

I find I have lost a lot of the Hindi quite quickly- I was starting to hear it in my head and now, of course with having had Japanese and English in there...it is fading.

I remember telling CCS at our closing meeting, that I could only hope to find a job that gave me 1/10th the satisfaction working with Mobile Creches did. This is a strong guideline in my search for something that I hope will become more than just a paycheck.

With my computer happy again, pictures will start appearing and I hope to have some to share shortly.

I miss the sun, not the pollution, and am really quite done with snow - be careful what you ask for - there were 3+ inches more last night...

There have been several possible positions. I don't feel ready to work 40 hours but my checkbook says otherwise! I still have many people to catch up with. Surfing the web takes up lots of time, but it is also a portal to possible jobs.

I have joined Facebook and found many friends from India there. I also find myself watching YouTube videos of traffic in Delhi. The picture above is one Jessica took of me dancing at "Excite" in McCloud Ganj one night. No pose- I never knew it was taken til she showed it to me.

In the process of moving forward, I have signed up to crew the Seattle Susan G. Komen 3-Day event walk for Breast Cancer in mid-September. I walked this about eight years ago, but with the desire to help more than personal achievement, I will crew it (that is help the walkers, feed them, set up tents, rest stations, whatever is needed for the three days they walk. I am not required to fund raise for this but, of course, donations will be welcome at http://www.the3day.org/

I am designing lights for Driftwood Players "Our Town" which opens in February.

Cliff and I have adopted an eight-month-old corgi puppy also. His name is Zack and he is a tricolor. By starting with an eight-month-old we are hoping to side step some potty training and chewing issues. It has been my long-time wish to add another dog to our family. He is bright and tries hard. Duffy is a bit "put out" but they are sleeping with bums touching as I write.

I have avoided resolutions and "goals" in '09. I am trying to keep in touch with what I found in India and gently expand my horizons. Keeping in touch with friends and those I have come to know and love will carry more weight with me now than all the "stuff" in the stores ever could.

I also am cleaning and organizing - to make room in my life for new things. It is truly amazing to me how much "accumulates" in a relatively clean house!

So, ....I may post less often; of course, life might not be as interesting day-to-day - or maybe it will. Whether you are staying subscribed or deciding just to visit occasionally- thank you for supporting me in this venture -many of you let me know you were reading, worrying, rejoicing with me. Be well - be happy - be grateful - always. Here's to the journey. Family, friends and acquaintances are gifts I am grateful for. Here's to '09!

Japan Again - Kamakura, Narita and Home

2008-12-29T09:59:00.000-08:00

Well, the rain is washing the snow away and I am still catching up on the Japan blogs. Seeing Japan as a tourist felt more like skimming the surface- which I tried to do a lot of. I definitely missed getting to know individuals more personally. The Japanese are so different from the Indians and yet they remain a facination for me. I know this is a country I will want to visit again. When I think of traveling more, I don't think of quick sightseeing trips- they seem too vague right now. Staying somewhere for a while - even the four weeks in Delhi - allows the newness and awe and fear to ripen into more in-depth views and talking to people living in the cities helps define them in a more "realistic" way. Realism takes time - something so few of us have available. I remember the Aussies and UK people being agast at our two week vacation policies and even more so that many many US workers don't even take vacation they will be paid for!

So, on to Thursday and Kamakura. Kamakura is a small town due south from Tokyo, accessable by rail (about one hour). It used to be the capital from 1192-1333. Today it has many many temples and gardens to see between Kita-Kamakura and Kamakura city proper. Again, easy to get lost! A bit west by train is the town and the attached island of Enoshima. Big draw are the potential sightings of Mt. Fuji either from the train or on the way to Enoshima. On the train, I did see Mt. Fuji- yeah!

After detraining in Kita-Kamakura, I followed the signs to several of the temples. Some I just could not find- others required backtracking. They were large and small, all with amazing cemateries and gardens. Even with it being late fall/early winter the shapes and trees were gorgeous. I saw many wisteria platforms and could only imagine them full of purple blooms in the spring!

The picture at the beginning is of Hotei - God of Happiness - I rubbed his belly good and hard.

After four hours of temples (no I did not see them all...)I finally came into Kamakura proper. I ate another udon/soba lunch and got a ticket for the train to the Diabutsu and Enoshima Island.

The buddha was awesome - you can even go inside to see how it was made. The train to the Island was nice- first ocean water I have seen in 13 weeks. Clear and cool day made for great viewing.
The car and foot traffic bridge to Enoshima were a great walk. I walked up the hill and into another temple. By this time it was near sun set - so I had to see this place much more quickly than I wished.
On the way back, I stopped for octapus crackers -spicy - and some other treats. I touched the Pacific near the pier and waited for the sunset. Mt. Fuji was a bit foggy but still visible.
Many stopped to point and admire "Fuji-san" in it's glory. Back on the train I headed home to Tokyo. Of course, I found myself back in Shibuya - wrong train - but knew enough to get straightened around. I arrived back in Ginza about 7:30 - bone tired. I decided to get dinner and eat in my room - so I went to B2 of Matsuya Ginza and bought an assortment of meat on a stick, edamame salad, a bento bowel of fish and greens and a sweet. I retired to my room and had my feast - really glad for the rest.

The next day, Friday, I revisted the fish market and had a bowel of ahi and semi-fatty toro with rice and vegies. The usual fare for the people working the market is not fish - but a pork and noodle soup that is served in huge bowels....it smelled great but not first thing in the morning.

The train to Narita was quick and easy - I didn't get lost, but carrying/wheeling my bags was a bit strenuous on the steps.

Arriving in Narita I walked to my ryokan - quite different than the first and settled in. I went out for a late lunch and finally had unagi (eel).
It is quite pricey but in Narita, being outside of Tokyo, the prices were reasonable. Yum, adult and babies and the usual miso soup and tea and pickles. On the way back through town I saw the zodiac statues and took pictures of all 12.

After lunch, I headed for the one and only temple...it was quite huge with many buildings and an amazing garden with many trails and three ponds - koi of course~!

I stayed for several hours and then walked back to my room. Dinner was sushi in a small sushi bar- the salarymen (and women) don't get in til after 7 p.m. when the activity in the restaurants picks up. It was good fish and saki. I knew the traveling day was ahead and called it a night.

Up early, I departed with a fellow traveler - getting lost - got on the wrong way train, but making it to Narita Airport in plenty of time. Flight to Hong Kong was pleasant but we got in very close to departure for my LAX flight. It turned out that that flight was delayed two hours - I am glad they fixed the landing gear! This made us late into LAX - I missed the last flight into Seattle - snow and more snow...Cathay Pacific put me up in the Westin LAX - my first mattress and box spring combo - and a two-headed shower...they fed me too. Trying to do the time change (almost 17 hours difference from Tokyo), I was in bed early and slept well.

After much confusion and planning (the folks at Alaska/Horizon were awesome considering the number of people in various moods they had to deal with). I decided on very nice and got a flight home through Santa Rosa, CA (a bit north of San Francisco)...I chose this because if I got stuck again, I could stop and see Wine Country! No need. Arrived in Seattle at 12:30 - the snow was getting worse again, so Cliff and I hurried home.

Next up - reverse culture shock!

Catching up on Japan

2008-12-28T11:55:00.001-08:00

I know, I know....but with 10-12 hour days in Japan and no English available computer it was hard to blog...so here is the catch up - about a week late.

The days in Japan flew by- subways, food, more food, etc. I think the food junkie bit was due to not being able to /or choosing not to eat street food in India. I kinda went nuts the days in Japan. Royal milk tea from a vending machine and some bean paste cookies were a common snack.

Monday -after a visit to the Tourist Information Center I decided to start in Asakusa and saw the Senso-ji temple complex there.
I took a water taxi from there through many of the 12 bridges - This is a formal public transport - not just for tourists and the views are great. I chose to get off at the I landed by the gardens near the fish market and took a near sunset stroll (only 4:30) through these gardens. Beautifully kept. This is a 300 year old pine.

I then went out to get a hair cut - getting pretty shaggy - what a wonderful experience. Despite the huge language barrier, I was able to find a picture close to what I wanted. The stylist hung up my outer things and I got my "coat" on- then a shampoo - with a paper mask on my face- cut, dry, thin; then she rewashed my hair and dried it- fixed up odd bits and gelled it - upon paying and leaving she gave me her card- which I examined and bowed over (I read about this in Lonely Planet Tokyo) and departed.

Dinner was tempura - of course the restaurant specialized in that. I learned to mix my chopped radish (hot or mild) with the light soy sauce and then use that to dip the tempura in. The tempura is served one or two pieces at a time - piping hot and delicious. My favorite was the tempura patty- a mix of batter, vegies, and small shrimp -fried up like a small pancake- yum!

Mornings were the Japanese-style breakfast that came with my room. It was always brown rice, some yogurt, tofu, assorted vegetables/pickles and some type of miso or vegetable soup and tea...delicious. I ate about 8 a.m. and was usually out the door by 8:30 or 9 - not to return for many hours.

Right after breakfast Tuesday I headed to the Tsukiji fish market. While I couldn't see the auction - the outer market was great. I had fresh grilled scallop (about the size of my fist and nibbled from any and all offerings.

The later morning was spent traveling out to Shinjuku (the area where the government offices are). My main goal was the free observation towers there and hopefully a sighting of Mt. Fuji. Huge buildings and very modern (Seattle folks think Bellevue new). Many many salary men rushing about in the ever-present black suits.

I have noticed that all (and I do mean all) Japanese carry cell phones. They "personalize" them with small charms hanging off the phone by a light chain or "leash". These charms are really insights into the personalities behind the black and white look. I have seen small Mickey Mouse, sumo wrestlers, shoes, and pretty much anything you can think of...Cell phones are ever present. A glance over a seat-mates shoulder showed that they text by typing in a Japanese kanji and then a selection of words comes up - which they have either programmed or are "best guess" they choose and move on- slower texting than I see on English but it works well. Since is it "bad manners" to talk on cell phones on the subways, texting is going on. Even during rush hour, bags are stored overhead and one hand is used to hold on (if needed - sometimes not needed because of the crush)and the other to manipulate the phone!

The view was pretty good - no Fuji...I hoped for it when I went to Kamakura. Managed my way back and had lunch there in the walkway near another store.

Tuesday capped off with a visit to the Imperial Palace Gardens and then a sushi dinner of amazing proportions. Since the Emperor and family were in residence, the palace was not open. The gardens were quiet and pretty - again - a quick visit and walk back - this time all the way up the main street of Ginza in the growing dark - as the lights came on and people rushed about their business in such an orderly fashion compared to India. Even at crowded street crossings, the flow was amazingly civil and orderly - no horns - no running - no jaywalking!

The dinner was arranged for me by my ryokan- I gave them my price range and knew I wanted to stay in the Ginza district. They booked me at Seamon - (no not the place Anthony Bourdain went- my bad). It was beautiful, pricy and served impecably. There were probably a dozen or more courses and each complemented the previous ones in taste, texture and presentation. No, it was not a huge amount of food but each piece was perfect, served on a beautiful dish and so fresh and clean. I had saki with it and closed with a barley tea

Wednesday I woke to rain and decided (with the help of a texted forcast from a friend)to hold off on Kamakura for a day. I chose instead to go to Roppongi and Shibuya. Roppongi has the Mori Art Museum - a good rainy day idea and Shibuya has the busiest intersection in the world...

Seattlite that I am, I was not daunted by the rain, but I did get lost again once arriving at the museum (but not on the subway!)in Roppongi. Getting straightened out, I headed for the Art Museum and saw there were exhibitions on gold and (surprise surprise) India! It also included a view from the tower (not much to see in the rain). All this for about $20 US.

I also saw the Guiness World Record Post Box! Roppongi (hard 'g' sound)is very upper class it seemed but parts were regular "working class" style with some older areas. It is necessary to remember that most of Tokyo was destroyed in the bombings ending the Second World War - so very little architecture remains older than 60 or so years.

The exhibits were great- of course no photos allowed. I saw lots of gold from mining to Oscars and Gold Records (Susan Saranden's Oscar and Buddy Holly's record). The India exhibit was of new artists portraying Delhi and India - it was amazing- I really felt quite connected to it.

I had a soba noodle experience for lunch - I never knew you put the sauce and wasabi (all wasabi here was fresh ground) and then dipped in the cold noodles - yum. Of course, tea and rice and a few tempura shrimp for good measure. I had some bean paste filled cookies for desert from another booth.

Onward on the subway to Shibuya - really raining at this point- this required several changes of subway lines and of course, I got lost....

I never went outside here but from big glass windows saw the huge intersection and the tons of people crossing. There was also a Tokyu store there with the required two floors of amazing food....and a "kimono department"...I had to check this out. I have read several books on kimono and have an idea what goes into wearing one. The department was fascinating with all the parts (obi, obi cord, purses, shoes, tabi, etc). A woman asked me if I spoke English - I jumped- and asked if I had ever worn a kimono - I said - not correctly...she spoke with one of the sales people and soon I was dressed in a beautiful one - no big deal with the underpinnings but full on with collar and obi. They took pictures of me - I never thought of buying it- but then the sales person showed me the tag...it was a "used" one, 60 years old...it is now mine - I didn't buy a sari in India- one of my few regrets - but I do have the kimono - no obi but a light belt to hold it on - I know what I want for my birthday!

Dinner was beef - first in 12 weeks. It was at a small restaurant (most are and at least one to a building) near Ginza. The chef worked from many cuts behind a "beef bar" - think sushi bar but for beef. I had a wonderful dinner that included three different types of steak - all very different but unique and cooked perfectly on a little charcoal brazier. There was also some beef carpachio, beef intestine, and a few pickles and salads in between. Of course, a bit of rice, miso soup and tea afterwards. Total weight of beef was about 4-5 ounces. There was not enough English spoken for me to determine if Kobe was used at all - though each piece was perfect, tender and amazingly flavorful. My body did not like me later, despite feeding it this awesome desert - with a raincoat over the bag no less!~

On to Kamakura next post.

Japan....

2008-12-16T00:21:00.000-08:00

This may be short and without pictures. Got the pictures added but can't move them-the cues are in Japanese! Japanese computers have many buttons we don`t have and some in different places.

The first thing I noticed was the quiet - no car horns. Then the lack of color in what people wear - but color is everywhere. There is little or no English here.

Food is beautiful, small, and delicious - delicate after the loud big plates of curry in India. I thought I would have trouble "tasting" but it is so different. There is tea everywhere (something Japan and India have in common).

I have walked over 20 hours in the past two days (not counting time on the various subways). I have seen the Fish Market - visitors are not allowed at the early auction because it is the busy season. I have taken a water taxi under most of the bridges, eatten soba noodles, tempura, sushi, and will have my first beef in 12 weeks tonight. The department stores have huge two floor arrays of food for sampling and purchase - it is like a food court, sample food show, grocery store, deli, etc all rolled into one. No pictures allowed - of course I snuck some.

The differences from India are huge - I have given up on comparison - I am just seeing so much - and I see with different eyes than I have ever traveled with before. While I don`t miss India, exactly, I am kind of feeling like I don't belong anywhere right now. I do miss my kids lots.

I will try to find an internet cafe (I know they exist - it is just reading the signs and going down the right street).

I will be home in 4-5 days (I do Sat the 20th twice)...It does seem like Christmas is close -decorations everywhere - Ginza is wild with moving signs, lights, etc...

I am looking forward to talking to and seeing all of you.

Good-Bye India

2008-12-12T17:21:00.001-08:00

Well, the last day is over.

I went to placement and spent the day with the remaining seven kids (since 20 have moved on to different work sites with their families). We blew bubbles and then I gave the teachers a thank you note and showed them pictures of my family and Seattle. They gave me a note of thanks and some hand-made paper flowers. There were tears and so many feelings. The hardest is knowing I will most likely never see these children again or know what has become of them. I know that what I gained from teaching them these past four weeks has been priceless.

I can't say enough about Mobile Creches - it is so India, so organized, and so necessary to give these kids just the smallest chance in this big busy country.

Three of us then journeyed on our "mission" into Connaught Place and Main Market. It was a quick trip (three hours)but it was all India - the big, the small, the rich, the poor - all the colors, horns, and of course, the people I have come to know in a very special way.

I leave today for Hong Kong and then Japan (arriving Sunday afternoon). I have gotten to have time with some of the folks from Dharamshala (Donna and Tom) to catch up and rebond - very nice. I am all packed. While I write this, it is quite cold out and foggy - hope flights are not delayed too much - though I have a 10 hour layover in Hong Kong - nice planning!

So now, to a last walk in the park - through market, and then a note to the staff thanking them.

I am totally without words to describe these last 12 weeks. I miss Cliff and DP friends and others, but at the same time, this has been so eye-opening, mind blowing, and perspective shattering, that it will take me some time to "process" it all.

More pictures and thanks will be coming this way. I will do my best to blog from Tokyo- but as a tourist...different eyes again. I have a lot planned for my five full days and a bit more. Compared to 12 weeks it seems like almost a flyover.

Good-bye India - thank you for showing yourself to me in all your colors, chaos and beauty. I will never forget - I will spread the word.

The Taj and other Temples

2008-12-06T19:59:00.000-08:00

This lock is at a large Hindu Temple complex in Delhi. There are statues of most of the major gods and goddesses and places to worship, take puja (an offering sweet) and get a blessing (either a tikka on the forhead or a red string on the wrist). We were able to go here and also to a Sikh temple (like the one in Amritsar- only smaller.

It was very interesting as we were accompanied by CCS gentleman who is Sikh and he was able to explain in great detail about the Sikh religion (it shed some light on things I had seen in Amritsar). I will need to get photos of the staff here also - I know I am bad about people pictures!~

These two are of my placement. I was able to get a shot of Emily playing with the kids in our "yard" through a hole in the brick building. I also took pictures of the kids and a couple of the teachers at their request. The tallest boy is actually a student! The two women next to him are teachers - no names - we just call each other "didi" meaning "older sister". I really have to make myself understood this week, as it is my last, so I can get good photos. I get conflicting ok's on pictures - some while coloring- no during function(which never happened). I know they want the kids to "look good" but I just want their faces and them doing any work or play...

On Saturday morning Caroline and I rose at 2:00 a.m. and started out at 2:30. The drive was easy - we slept most of the way. Our driver stopped at the entrance- in the dark - actually 1km from the ticket office. We arrived there about 5:50 a.m. There is a car-free zone around the Taj for pollution protection. We walked through all the rickshaw ride sellers and arrived at the gate. We bought our ticket (750 Rs for foreigners- about $18). Then we waited in line til about 7:15. We were then thoroughly searched and went in. The Taj is actually a complex of buildings, so you don't "see" it right away. There is a path with buildings and an arch on your right. Through the arch and...

I actually "teared up" a bit. I have read and seen pictures of this place all my life - and now here I was....only disappointment was that they were cleaning the pools, so no water reflection...it was still spectacular. We took photos and stood around waiting for sunrise. The building changed color often... It was quite misty. We then put on our shoe covers and went up onto the actual building and walked around. You can go all the way around the back - there were army and other military guards at the river bank below the Taj....There are also pollution meters - between the low level of the river and the danger of the Taj sinking and pollution - this site is actually quite in danger!

This is from the back of the Taj- it has inscriptions all the way around. We also went inside- it is very dark and there are the tombs there. I "snuck" some pictures but won't web them! Guides with flashlights showed how the detailed mosaics showed their colors. This is also being lost in the cleaning/pollution cycle.

There are huge gardens and lots of birds in the complex. We stayed about an hour and a half- it was getting crowded. We walked out the 1 km with young men selling things in our faces - this is hard sometimes - the deals are great but if you stop for one- you get surrounded by many.

Today, I am taking myself to brunch at the Lodi Garden Restaurant- one rickshaw ride alone is necessary - Everyone else has either gone home or there is a group at the Taj this a.m. There are quite a few westerners, but I will wear Indian, blend in (ha, ha) and have my solo outing...There were no problems at airports yesterday- despite some email warnings....it is just going to be a presence here.

I have five teaching days left. Some vols from Dharamshala come back Thursday and it will be good to see them again! Hope after "feedback" on Friday we can go out and have dinner. Then a plane on Saturday the 13th to Hong Kong and Japan...I have taken my Tokyo book out of "hiding" and will start on that. I have sent two more boxes home with some clothes and "stuff" - so I can travel light the rest of the way.

It is hard to believe 12 weeks are gone. I am ready to move on - the U.S. I am returning to is a very different place. I can't wait to see everyone and show my pictures (help with slide show would be great!)...I have no idea yet what will come of this adventure - I do know I want to continue to work with children who are poor or need tutoring. I will miss my kids the most!

Dancing, Jaipur, Shopping and more

2008-12-01T18:13:00.000-08:00

Before all the mess in Mumbai, there were good times to be had. Earlier in the week, several of us went to the "Western mall" - Huge and very expensive stores. You have to go through security to get in! This was in place even before Mumbai stuff. Sarees there were going for about 75000 Rs ($1500 + in US$)... I had gelato (the spoons for each were separate - I did not get sick!)- It was fantastic. The mall has three levels - a food court and looks and feels just like one of our malls in the US (complete with "Nordstrom" piano player

Right below the mall on the main street were people living in tin shacks --- again the contrasts were so black and white - it just blows the mind.

A dance troop from Orissi (southern India) came to our flat and did a presentation for us. All states in India have their "native" dance- these girls have studied for more than 10 years each and this group travels internationally. It was beautiful. It takes them 2 hours to get ready for the performance with the makeup and clothes and hair.

Friday after placement - here is my classroom-

we were off to Jaipur - despite the issues in Mumbai - we did not want to stick around for "house arrest" on election day in Delhi. We drove through Guragon - one of the "outsourcing" areas and through the smog into cleaner Rajestan - drier, rolling hills, etc.. Camels were seen doing the pulling work.

After dinner in a very western restaurant - complete with Rajestani dancers and good food we went on to the Bisseau Palace Hotel. The room was beautiful. We listened to musicians in the lobby and went on to bed pretty early.

We got up early and looked around - the sky was clear and we shopped at a few small places in the courtyard of the hotel. Breakfast was a buffet for $4 for two of us. Our driver met us and we were off to the Amber Fort and an elephant ride (my pictures of me on the elephant are just what the seller took and I don't have them for computer). Big thing here is that anyone who lets you take their picture, or does anything for you expects (read- required) a tip (10-15 Rs usually).

It gets a bit old and you learn to take pictures secretly and to have plenty of 10 Rs notes ready. The ride up was wonderful and the Fort is amazing - so many places to see and halls to explore (we even found the water pulley and the loo - there are over 1000 of them in the fort).

After the fort we stopped several places and watched a cobra tamer - it was cool.

Then on to the City Palace - much more expensive to get into but much less to see. Several beautiful doors here. They were preparing for a wedding - that would cost a lot here - I decided I wished to be a mouse just for one night to see all the sarees, etc....

We shopped around in Jaipur (no markets for us - our driver decided too dangerous).
I would have loved to just wander some of the streets.

Lots of stuff to buy - bought a bit of this and that....Many motor scooters in Jaipur- one side of street for scooter parking (looked like a Harley reunion)and other side for cars and animals.

Jaipur is smaller and cleaner and feels much "older" than Delhi. Again, bright colors dominate but with a different style. Most of the women wear their saree scarves over their faces. They also wear more sarees than salwar suits there! Having been to several states it is clear that each has its own culture, flavor and traditions - and despite speaking English and Hindi - they hold their individualism and culture as special. I found more English speakers in Jaipur than even in Delhi (or at least the parts I have been in). It is a very tourist town - lots of westerners- less conservatively dressed - than in the parts of Delhi I have been to. It was good to be out of Delhi and in cleaner air- saw the stars! I wish more time had been available.

After lunch and shopping we headed home.

Sunday we went out to various markets - several rickshaw rides to get there - "M" is not next to "N" and II is not next to I - really confusing.

We went to a sweet shop and bought boxes of Barfi (assorted sweets - so many I can't keep track - some good - some not- almost no chocolate). All the sweets are very sweet - so a little goes a long way. A box like the one in the picture was 75 Rs (less than $2).

Onward to my last 12 days in India - I will try and take more pictures of the kids - it is hard - they get very excited and the pictures are blurry...a bit more shopping-sending of packages home to make room for Japan. My cold is better - maybe the clean air helped.

Danger in the Face

2008-11-27T01:16:00.000-08:00

Hello all: I am fine - Mumbai is far away from here. Delhi is under high alert - especially with the elections happening on Saturday the 29th.

At this point, I am still traveling to Jaipur (no elections there - complicated story - but all of India doesn't vote on the same day). We will go by private car(I have canceled my much looked-forward to train ticket!). We will see the sights, not stay in a high-end, chain Western hotel and try to blend in....

Yes, it is scary - really scary. CCS knows where we are at all times and we have to sign in and out to go anywhere right now. I will actually feel better away from Delhi-since those staying in town will technically be under "house arrest" on Saturday -everything is closed and lots of activity related to the elections is expected. I feel very "white and western" right now - very visible....

Please feel free to email me - I will be out of touch Friday afternoon and Saturday but will check and respond to all emails. I also have text messaging available!

I will take care -I promise - this seems much closer even than 9/11 in some ways.

Will blog on my trip Monday...

In Delhi

2008-11-23T17:18:00.000-08:00

It has been a busy first week.

I am not yet allowed to take pictures at placement but will try this week - the children are amazing. I am absolutely exhausted after two hours. They are on so many different learning levels from barely able to write numbers and letters to doing 100s multiplication, and everywhere in between. They are so sweet and happy too.

On the "tourist" front, the CCS group visited India Gate (above) and several other places - I was glad to have been to Lotus temple before - the museum was closed the day CCS took us.

Over the weekend, several of us braved the rickshaws and went into Old Delhi - a great mass of tiny alleys and wide streets to go shopping and have lunch and see the Red Fort. We carefully watched our bags, bought salwar material to have made here near where we live (South Delhi), said no a thousand times to people trying to sell us stuff we didn't want, and tried to look everywhere at once. It took one autorickshaw and one bicycle rickshaw to get where we were going (at a higher price than we should have paid). We were grateful to the one young woman, Nam, who is Indian/Aussie and spoke quite good Hindi! This is definitely not a city to relax in - and in the thick of it - fun is not the first word I would use.

We had lunch at Halderam's a food court that seemed, and was, safe- we were careful to eat cooked foods, and finished with galobjamen (sweet dough in hot honey sauce!)

On our way to the Red Fort, we came across a tent bazaar that was right out of McLeod - Tibetians selling lots of the stuff from up there. I bought one more shawl - my only purchase for the day actually. I am picky and the little stuff doesn't call to me. Jewelery is plentiful here. We also ended up down an set of streets that were all electronics - from the plugs, etc for house building, to lights for your parties, to computers, etc. There was a big jam of cars delivering stuff.

Lots of people were selling cut fruit and it looked so good- until you saw them douse it with tap water to keep it cool and shiny! Sigh... It was actually very hard to take pictures because of the crush and not being able to stand still.

The Red Fort is a Mogul tomb/fort area that is very "touristy". You buy your ticket and are searched then go through gates into a "mall" of stores that have stuff at very high prices. The fort is pretty "ordinary" - I liked Qutr Minar better. There was a quiet place to sit further in - this is Nam and Sue two of my Delhi mates.

We finished the night at a "Johnny Rockets" restaurant - with fried chicken and corn/spinich bake. For four of us this dinner came to 1700 Rs (about $25). This was at the Habitat Learning Center - a wealthy area and beautiful building Then we stopped by a Sufi concert that was not terribly good. We were tired and got a cab and went home - deep sigh....

Fighting a cold, we went to the zoo on Sunday - We were part of the exhibit. Early in the day- large groups of young men come and just walk about - they stare frankly and followed us around taking our pictures...it was really uncomfortable at times. We stayed near families and groups of school kids in uniform.

The zoo was a mix of great open areas and small cages - obviously a work in progress. The elephants were active, as was the white tiger. There was a huge exhibit of storks - flying free, etc.

We then went to Lodi Gardens - quiet, families picnicing, etc. Lunch was a splurge at the Lodi Garden Restaurant - hummus and pita, lamb kabobs, some pasta...in a very western setting - open garden - we may try the buffet here as many Westerners were eatting here and the food was covered and cooked to order.

The afternoon was spent resting, watching "A Knight's Tale" and enjoying the quiet. After a light dinner of dal and eggplant (with the usual roti, rice, and salad) bed was early - to help get rid of the cold. Back to work tomorrow (Monday). Hoping for pictures of my kids this week.

Smoggy, Busy, Wild Delhi!

2008-11-15T18:00:00.000-08:00

I flew out of Dharamshala late Thursday afternoon and arrived in Delhi just before dark - yellow smoggy, off smelling Delhi. Wild traffic did not "freak" me as it did the first time.

I am in a flat with 7 others in a triple this time - three beds. We have a TV, and oh yes a microwave - I have missed that convenience, and nonfat milk (I know but after 8 weeks of whole milk it is a real blessing). Current volunteers walked Kai and I around market and got a bit oriented...so easy to get lost. I bought a magazine and found a Daily Goods store and Big Apple grocery where I proceeded to buy some Daliya (porrage mix)....we pretty much do our own breakfasts here, though the cooks do great lunch and dinner. First lunch was FISH CURRY!!! - I have so missed fish and totally pigged out on this.

Kai and I went out Friday (other new vols were arriving later, so we had one more day together - we were flatmates in D/shala). We went to Lotus Temple (those watching Amazing Race - this where they were), and Qutb Minar (very old structure from the Muslim Sultinate and Mogul times. Lotus Temple is the big one for the B'hai Faith (they believe all religions are basically the same - just with different prophets and words of God). The museum there was very interesting -they did not have many postcards - no photos allowed inside - but we will return as a group and I will probably buy the "book".

The seats were a hot flashing woman's dream - sorry guys - Marble floors, marble seats and open wood backed pews! Beautiful religion emblem in the ceiling, showing the integration of man, God, and the word of God and the world. I will try and find it to paste in some time.

We have a great computer at the flat that is pretty fast too -so no more internet cafe's for me.

Between the Lotus and Outb Minar we had to bully our way through rickshaw drivers who either wanted too many rupees for where we were going (got estimate from CCS staff) or wanted to take us "shopping" - they drive you to a shop where they get a commission, etc....very challenging when six are around two of you - you really have to be firm.

The Qutb Minar was built between 1100 and 1300 and is being restored. The pillar is awesome. There are many different buildings in different states of repair...It costs 250 Rs to get in for foreigners (only 10 Rs for Indians)- this is true of most sites including the Taj (25 Rs for Indians and 700 or so for foreigners).

I do feel more of a foreigner here and the "big city" is hard to miss- though I have yet to see skyscrapers, etc. It is over 300 kms (200 miles) around Delhi area, so things are quite spread out. I got a Delhi map and am getting oriented.

I will be working with children of migrant workers at the rebuilding of the Nehru Stadium (mobile creches are set up to help keep the children of the workers safe and give them some socialization and education while their parents are working). I will be working with a lovely woman from the UK (no time yet for pictures- they are coming). It will be challenging - various respiratory bugs and head lice are a problem here - so I will have to keep eating lots of oranges and pomegranates (cheap and plentiful).

Sorry for the lack of detail...this was a trial run of the computer here.

I have found a bookstore close by (across the Metro they are building and a very busy 8 lane street - with challenging crossing but doable. The owner and I chatted and I got a "bookstore discount" on my two books I bought- I will return there - it is small and crowded but full of interesting stuff. Mostly the covers are British and paperbacks run 350-575 Rs (about $7-12 US). They have more current books in paperback - ones still in the US in Hardcover (sorry for those non-bookies - this is for my Bookstore friends!)

Off to get "oriented" and will probably blog more. Questions and requests are welcome. Thanks to those that have.

Leaving Dharamshala

2008-11-12T00:32:00.000-08:00

It has been a week of finishing for me - as well as some new adventures.

I leave tomorrow - Thursday the 13th for Delhi and the start of my four weeks there.

On request, I am including some photos of people from CCS, my "mates" as well as some pictures of things I have done (all depending on how fast the internet is today).

This is a pictures of me and volunteers on the front porch of the main house - dinner and lunch are taken here and a lot of good conversations lasting long into the night transpire. The staff also is here and we have the opportunity to interact with them.(sorry for the computer gobbly gook- I couldn't get rid of it and ran out of time to redownload - appologies).
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This is a picture of vols Donna (from Australia), Jessie (from Boston), and Kit (oops I don't remember where he is from) and MuMu - the puppy we at the house are "rescuing"- she will get spayed and go to a new home soon!

This is Anju- she works for CCS Dharamshala and is the translator for the women's group - she dances and has an 18-month old son.

This is Surich (Sun). He is one of our "guards" - they work alternating weeks on day and night shift - they are great!

This is Rakesh- the chef- no he is not a cook - he is a chef- He is also a very interesting person to speak to -early in the morning eating breakfast. He made my favorite breakfast - daylia - porrage- twice this week just for me. He has given me some of his recipes, and I will help with the Naan bread tonight for my last tandoori night! Yum.

This is Kanchan. She works for CCS and is a great dancer. Here she is dressed in a special sari and is preparing to dance a Bollywood dance for us! She always wears the newest fashion.

There are other staff at CCS- including Anil-ji the Program Head here - He is hard to get a picture of - he is always very busy. I will try before I go. All of the staff work hard to keep us in bananas and milk and chai, great food, clean rooms and beds and teach us some Hindi along the way.

They always have a ready smile and are impeccably polite. I am also namaste'd in the market by those coming to recognize me. I tear up knowing that I am also now a part of these people's landscape - I have shared tea and talk. I am so much smarter about this part of the world - there is no Shangri-La but despite many difficulties, theirs is not a "terrible life".

This is Raju my yoga teacher - he is always encouraging us to "open eyes with great smiling on your face". I love his wisdom and great attitude to life- I will miss him greatly. He is only 19 and is going to southern India to study more yoga for five months - this is a great opportunity for him!

Over the last week I have visited the Fort at Kangra. This is a very old fort and is being restored. It was beautiful- some of it dates back to Paleolithic times, as well as Mogul times and the British Raj.

We also had a tabla and sitar and Harmonium performance. Some of the guys are taking lessons and demonstrated their new skills.

As I move on to Delhi - I will miss these people. I have shared chai in one room homes and is larger more formal places. I have learned so much about India. The most important this I will take is "slowly slowly". I do not know how this will translate at home - but I must somehow bring this into my life.

My placement in Delhi is with 4-7 year old in a mobile creche. I could have up to 40 children and only one other person there besides myself. I will be working about four hours a day - five days a week - quite intense in the big picture. There will be five new volunteers there besides myself. I am also looking forward to trips to the Taj Mahal and Jaipur in Rajestan to see the Pink Palaces there and maybe ride an elephant.

Dharamashala is forever in my heart- I know this sounds corney - but these gentle, hardworking people are dear to me. I don't think I could ever live here but despite all the places in the world I would love to see- coming back here would be on my list.

Weekend in Amritsar

2008-11-03T01:35:00.001-08:00

After a wonderful long weekend I am "home" again.

Amritsar is in the Punjab - a state in India west of Himachael Pradesh. The drive took us from 1:30 p.m. til 6:15 p.m. to make. The roads were interesting. We opted to pay a bit more for a taxi with AC and were glad of it. (the driver stays with the cab, takes you where you want to go and returns you - all for about $40 per person total - so with four people it was 8000 Rs). Coming into the Punjab the land gets flat and there was tons of harvesting going on- rice, wheat, sugarcane, etc. The "goods carriers" decorated trucks that carry everything everywhere were full of hay and grain. The roads varied between quite good and barely there. There was a lot of construction going on - especially of bridges and overpasses. Unlike in the States where detours take you - around - the mess - the temporary roads go right under the construction of huge overpasses, etc. Other temporary roads are just raised bits over big dry riverbeds.

All manner of vehicle run on these roads, bikes, scooters with up to four people on them, cars, carts, pedicabs, rickshaws, and trucks of all sizes. Horns are used to pass (especially when there is oncoming traffic). At night they "use dipper" to let others know they are passing (dipper is your bright lights which you "blink"). There are few if any traffic signals and no lanes.

Arriving in Amritsar at 6 p.m. we were cleared through a police barrier into the inner circle near the Golden Temple. This is the most holy site for Sikhs and has the best safety record of all-no stampedes, deaths, riots, etc. After settling in our rooms (there were four of us and we shared two view rooms- 2750 Rs per night about $45 each for two nights). Before entering the temple, you put your shoes with a shoe keeper - free- you get a chit and a cubby -everyone who works at the Golden Temple is a volunteer and all races, creeds, etc are welcomed with open arms. We wore Indian clothes and while we got stared at quite a bit and asked often for a "snap"- photo with a person, family, or group - we were in no way harrassed! After storing your shoes you cover your head - men and women both, walk through a shallow running water area to clean your feet and enter up into the temple. It is a rectangular area with the "Golden" part in the middle accessable by a walkway. We never got that far since the lines were very long- several hours worth usually. The center building is where the holy book is kept - it is brought in early in the morning and brought out for safekeeping late at night. We were able to see it brought out. A kind Sikh man from Toronto explained a lot to us and tried to get us to go closer. While it is safe, the fervor was palpable and we were a bit intimidated. The four of us were determined to go about only together or in pairs.

After walking around the entire complex, we went back for dinner - usually starts about 8:30. We were unable to find a "safe" restaurant, so we ate Indian at the hotel - actually quite good. Specialties included corn roti and a spinich, corn, peas mixture - we also kept vegetarian for safety - there was tons of food around but we were wary of street food - though there were times I considered it - especially in the mornings when only jam toast and tea were available.

The next day we went to the Golden Temple before sunrise to watch the sun on the buildings. Again, we were noticed but not bothered. Men were bathing in the holy water (Amritsar actually means holy nectar - relating to the water around the temple). People can stay and eat in the complex for a few rupees donation. Over the course of the weekend, the numbers increased but there was never any real feeling of crowding - it was a big big place.

After breakfast, we walked about and visited the memorial to the people killed by British troops in 1919. There was a beautiful garden and we were snagged for several group "snaps". It was quite hot and after a bit of window shopping we headed back and walked around the outside of the temple past the guest houses and some other gardens. Amritsar is very crowded and the rickshaw drivers are very forward in attempting to persuade you that you really do need a ride. It is really bad, if you are lost, to get in one because you will really "be taken for a ride"! Toes must be guarded at all costs. There is also a great number of beggars- much more assertive than in McLeod or Dharamshala - probably more like Delhi will be. I found some tabla but ended up buying them the next day.

Later that day we took our cab to several temples and then to the India/Pakistani border for the changing of the guard. Since our cab was only allowed out once a day-we had to do it all in one go. The first temple was the Durgiana Temple - another temple to Durga - Again, and I haven't got a clue why, but I was very uncomfortable. This is also called the silver temple because all the doors are huge silver panels. There was another "lake" around this temple.

The second temple was the Mata (mother) temple. It was like an amusement park - you went up stairs, around and up and down following a predesigned path. There were statues, stories, alters, glass mosaics, etc. There was a tunnel to crawl through and a "river" to wade in - ankle deep - to guarantee pregnancy (though not all of us have that to worry about!). There also was a bedecked statue to Indira Ghandi whose assassination day remembrance was 31 Oct.

After this, we took an hour drive west to the India/Pakistani border. This is quite a show. We got there early and sat and had Coke with a group of school girls (high school age) and then a big crowd push to the stands. It was really tight and men and women were separated for searching - only water bottle and camera and belly bag with passport were allowed.

We got to the stands and got a great seat. There was a Master of Ceremonies on both sides, chanting call and response with the watchers. There was dancing in the street coming up to the border gates. It was quite wild. Our side was bright with colorful saris and salwar suits (men and women sit separately). At 5:15 the guards from both sides march around and change positions. The two countries flags are brought down. There is much stomping about and showing "off". The national fervor was wild and we joined in the chants for "Hindustani jindabad!" - Great India - while the Pakistani side chanted "Pakistan jindabad!". After it was over, we filed out - less packed in than coming in and drove back in the dark to Amritsar. I really enjoyed the students we were with and all the color. Despite the tight quarters, the women look after each other carefully and we were well taken care of by the girls.

We ate dinner in the hotel that night - very tired. More Indian dal, aloo (potato), etc. In the morning we shopped for shoes and I bought my tabla (drums) for 450Rs (about $5). Shipping them home will cost more. We left for home about 11 a.m. and stopped and had lunch in Pathancot - a town close the the Himachael border. It was lovely eating out in the garden. I had thali (plate lunch) which included a dal, a vegetable curry, naan bread, crisp bread, raits (a cold youghert and herbs - I ate a little and did not fall ill!) and a tea. We arrived tired but well sated about 5:30. Time for a shower and rest.

This is only a brief overview - there was so much going on- to see, hear, feel. I barely seem to notice the dirt, bustling etc. I respond well to horns and can dissuade touts with a 'nei' 'nei' and swipe of the hand with the best of them. I felt good getting "out of town" and enjoyed seeing another part of India. I really don't think I could do this country "alone" though....it can truly be overwhelming. Try though

It is hard to believe I have 10 days left here in Dharamshala- I got a bit teary riding up the hill and looking at "my" town. There is so much I don't know about this place but it feels comfortable and I am more at ease here than in the bustle. That will be a big challenge in Delhi where I will be more restricted in where and when I can go alone. I feel safe in the market and hills here and love waking to the birds and clopping hooves. This week we will have some new women joining and it will be a full week of class - no holidays. Several people have fallen ill with Delhi belly - but I have been lucky. I hope truly that my "luck" continues. I am missing chocolate badly but have gained a few kg and need to watch my portions. I will probably have one more salwar suit made before I go (for a total of five). I am enjoying the colors.

The Week before Diwali

2008-10-27T02:32:00.000-07:00

Hello again:

The sun still shines here. This is a picture of my room (my side - not my roomies). Work and play seem to meld here.

Saturday I walked up to McLeod and then further to the Tibetian Children's Village for their 48th anniversary and to see the Dalai Lama. It took about an hour and a half but easier than waiting in cab lines. My bananas and PB sandwiches came in handy. I found myself seated across an athletic field from where the Dalai Lama would sit. I was on some concrete stairs with many others (including this small lamb that helped himself to a lap!

It was right out of Harry Potter - the school is divided into four houses - with flags and house head (one boy/one girl).

All four houses marched in and stood while the school band (70 strong) played. Then His Holiness came in and walked up to the top floor where he stood for the parade in of all the students. Some people gave speeches and then the Dalai Lama spoke for about 30 minutes. He looked quite well, just having returned the week before from New Delhi where he had had some gallstones removed.

This was more time seeing him than when he spoke. It seemed less "holy" but still quite special. The Tibetians have had this school here for 48 years and it is used to educate the children - especially orphans whose parents are dead or still possibly in Tibet. There was no translation- unfortunately. The whole thing was about three hours. I really enjoyed sitting with the people - they brought blankets, tea, food - the kids were dressed up in all their finery for the occasion. I sat among mostly Tibetians but had the good fortune to walk up and back with several groups who spoke English and we shared our tales.

The Dalai Lama then did the white scarf blessing with some of the special visitors and went off to a lunch (one of the women I hiked back with had gotten around back and almost ran into him- literally - she had a great picture!) Then I hiked down to McLeod for lunch (a tuna and tomato sandwich and green tea) and a bit of shopping. The on down to Dharamshala (total of about 4.5 hours walking - yeah for me!). I saw a huge monkey - he was grey and had more of a monkey than baboon look - I didn't stop to take pictures because others were throwing things at several of us from the trees - seemed like a good time to move on!

I walked through market yesterday and it was like being at the mall the day or two before Christmas - tons of people - shops full - many tables of sweets and firecrackers and diyas (oil and wick holders) for sale. I bought some plastic garlands for our room at the flat. I also ordered and picked up a new suit (salwar kameeze) in brown with embroidery - it is fashion to get a new suit for the holiday. Giving household good (stainless steel cups, tins, pressure cookers, etc is very popular). Many big ticket items come with several "prizes" - ie DVD players with 10 movies. Despite the traffic and crowds, everyone was quite nice - shopkeepers were very very busy and buses disgorged large numbers from outside the area - all set on doing their last minute Diwali shopping (Diwali starts Tuesday October 28). It is a holiday called the Festival of Lights. The small lamps are lit to keep away evil and the goddess Lakshmi is worshipped to bring prosperity to the family. Houses are decorated with lights (think how we decorate for Christmas), though only a day or two before the festival. Several days of festivities will follow Tuesday (we do not have our teaching assignments for three days).

In the women's group we celebrated one of our lady's birthday. She brought a cake and cookies and we made chai. We gave her a journal. She gave us Diwali presents of earrings! This is me and the birthday girl! The person with the birthday feeds small bites of the cake first to each guest to show affection. It is a sweet and touching ritual - they take it very seriously. All these women are so open in their feelings and affections - especially with other women. You can see that they lean on each other for support, a place to vent, play and be themselves before returning to their world of hard work and family responsibilities. They care deeply for each other and are open and warm to letting us into their lives and families.

I will be traveling up to Naddi (near Triund at 10,000 feet) tomorrow and then over the weekend to Amritsar (where the Golden Temple is - most holy spot for Sikhs). There will be four of us and I am sure my blog will be very long and full. It is hard to believe I have 17 days left here in Dharamshala - I am truly blessed to have this time and be able to do this.

A "Normal" Week

2008-10-21T02:37:00.000-07:00

Hello all:

It has been a slow and steady week with more "regular" activities than special ones. I find that when I am down or homesick, I walk down to market, namaste people, smile and say "hello" to some children and "take my life in my hands" walking through traffic.

The weather has been dry and sunny. The photo is one of an approaching storm - we are right up with the thunder and lightening! I have continued with yoga and Ragu has moved on to other poses; though he always starts with sun salutations. I am trying an afternoon class (there are 19 new volunteers so the class may be quite crowded!).

Yesterday the women's group when to a 'mundan' or boy baby blessing ceremony. The baby had his head shaved in temple (which we did not see the previous day) and then the partying began. It went all night and then the day we were there. There was a band and dancing, food and drink (they carefully served us chai, Fanta orange, and some cookies and sweets we could eat!). The house was beautiful - white with elaborate tile, etc. It turns out to be the mother-in-laws house and our group member lives next door with her family (she is only 17). I enjoyed the dancing and being able to see the women in their own elements. I want to get permission before pubing photos...

I hiked part way up a new back route to McLeod - need boots and stick then I will go further. Sometimes it really is "where is the trail?" - as you can see from the photo. Also hiked up the "regular" way - tried to pretend I didn't see the monkeys and they didn't see me! Bought a singing bowl and spent an hour looking at Pashmina and other shawls. The shopkeepers pull everything out and pile them high. They give you chai and show their "credentials". Only at the end when you have several picked out does the price talk begin. Negociating can go on for quite a while and usually you end up spending less than half what they start at. I actually walked away with nothing on that go - I just wasn't "in love" with any of it - the Pashmina has quite a history but I actually like the silk/cotton mix or the Paisley better (the term Paisley comes from the swirls on the material that mimic the curved imprint of the side of the hand of the person "signing" the paper etc - from many centuries ago.

Other interesting facts: Our "drug stores" or convenience stores are called "daily needs stores". Other items are quite segregated by type (magazines are separate from personal hygiene items like toothpaste/shampoo etc). There are separate stores for shoes, ready-made clothing, tailors etc. Back ends of trucks have "BLOW HORN" on the back. Turn signals are used to let those behind you know they should pull ahead of you (never to show you are actually turning that I have seen).

The entire town is preparing for Diwali (Festival of Lights) which starts next Tuesday night the 28th. Houses, walls (inside and out) get new colors of paint. Weeds are dug up. The tailors are booked solid making clothing and the small pots for the lights have sold out - poof! Of course, Tuesday night will have the fireworks - for those in Seattle - think the kind you get on the Reservations! Big big bang.

This is a bit short and ordinary- it is good to see day-to-day life as the people do (at least a bit). I don't work anywhere near as hard - behind the house a group of men are breaking up huge boulders by hand (with hammer and chisle). They work all day - with few breaks - slow and steady. No drama, no complaints(at least none I can discover via tone of voice). It is work that needs doing and is getting done. The horses and mules carry their loads daily, the birds sing, the babies scream or laugh...children ask for chocolate. Women walk to and fro with loads on their heads or by their sides. Children are never left wanting a hug or comfort. The ordinary comes and goes quietly (or not so quietly) every day. Drama only seems to enter via emails or phone calls or through my head or through the Internet when I read about the upcoming election, etc. It does seem my "worries" are there - just hidden behind miles and a veneer made by the clothes I wear. I have brought myself to India - in five weeks I am seeing more clearly who I am - the traits I admire and that others seem to - as well as those I would rather leave behind.

I wake eager for the days work, most of the time; and still find myself thinking about Delhi - three weeks out - etc. I will catch myself in the moment and be grateful for having nothing "better" to do at that moment. How can I bring this home?

Settling and Sinking In

2008-10-13T04:06:00.000-07:00

Another weekend has passed. Two groups departed to various outings (one climbing and one to Amritsar (I will go later). There were three of us left and we fended well for ourselves (did some of our own cooking, ate up in McLeod Ganj etc).

On Saturday, I took a cab and went off to Palampur (about an hours drive out from Dharamshala). The driver took me to various sites (all for about $40 US for 7.5 hours). I visited two temples (one to Durga and one to Shiva), a pottery studio, an art gallery, a tea factory and saw the sites around the area.

Palampur is quite a bit larger than Dharamshala but the market looked pretty much the same - just more stores. However, the produce seemed more varied and more plentiful. The Durga temple (Chambra Devi) was very bright and busy with almost a carnival air to it. Pictures were not permitted in the inside but the Durga (goddess of war/power) was clothed in red - I was told this was a particularly wrathful version of the goddess. People hawking offerings lined the entrance area, pushing their wares. Upon entering, we removed shoes (yes, they were still there when we returned), washed hands, and walked in barefooted. After offering a few rupees and obtaining our blessing and some sweets we emerged into the temple area where there was a large pool. People were swimming and there were paddle boats around. Several statues surrounded by metal picket fences and in sad need of repainting were around. There were monkeys, goats, and lizards around. There was also a camera store - which really seemed out of place.

Another temple was a Shiva temple - I liked this one lots more.
It was very old, elaborately carved stone. It actually felt more holy to me. Of course there were many people but only one selling offerings (usually rice, coconuts, etc). We again made an offering and got more of the dried sweets - I tried a small piece and threw the rest to the birds later! It does seem that each god/goddess has a distinct personality that comes out in the temple feeling, architecture, etc. I feel much more drawn to the Shiva sites.

I also went to a tea factory and was taken on a personal tour of the plant. On the way, we passed many fields of tea plants. The person taking me around explained the tea-making process in great detail from harvest, to drying, to rolling, to grading, etc. There are 35 year around workers and more for the harvest times (March - October if the weather cooperates). The Kangra tea is a Chinese hybrid and competes directly with Dargeeling. I bought a box of A and B tea (C or broken tea is the finely ground tea that is used in bags). My guide said C grade tea colors the water but has little taste! Yes, I will bring home some for sampling. Two huge boxes cost me only $4 US (about 200 R).

I found that even when driving on "real" two lane roads the drivers are quite willing to pass on curves and always are blowing horns. I have no idea how tires and suspension lasts at all on these roads. I was quite bruised from 5 hours of driving around, and always glad when we arrived somewhere to walk about.

The mountain views were awesome also - from lower in the valley.

During this same weekend we were up in McLeod and I got to take pictures of the temple where the Dalai Lama spoke - so I can now illustrate more clearly where I was during the talk. That temple really feels very holy and special. People enter and several were doing prostrations. Workers were refinishing the floors and several monks and lay people were seated in various places praying or saying their prayer beads. It is quiet and respectful. I want to return there for the peaceful feeling. (the downloading is going slowly - so these pics will come next "issue")

I have had several foods in McLeod - one must be very careful. The hot porrage with honey and banana was excellent, as was the vegetarian spaghetti - Italian spots do a roaring business, as do the bars - Kingfisher is the beer of choice - I haven't had alcohol because the altitude makes getting drunk worse - and it doesn't take much to affect me at sea level!

The amount of quiet time is amazing. With most people preparing for several holidays, there is little to do. I will probably go to market tomorrow - again another holiday - for the writer of the Ramayana. Dinner tonight is a mix of mashed potatoes, spaghetti and red sauce (think Indian hot), a chicken and mushroom dish and the ever present "salad" of sliced onion, tomato, cucumber, and radish.

Tomorrow we will meet the head of CCS in India Mrs. Bela Singh and then I will help the cook, Rakesh, make the halwah - a sweet wheat (fruit- this time pumpkin), and sugar desert that I love.

I have also succumbed to the cold that has been going around - so I have the sore throat and a bit of sniffles. I am moving upstairs in the house tomorrow - I will end up with a new roomie - my Aussie is moving in with someone else....the attachment thing coming home again! The second floor is nice with a balcony and view and is quieter. I will have the room to myself for a few days- kind of a bonus.

Hope all is well and I am enjoying your emails to me ( I am now admitting to a bit of homesickness- text messages and emails are encouraged - this is a normal thing here- nothing to "worry" about - I am asking for what I need! Thanks to all Driftwood Players members who have been keeping me in touch and for making my husband feel at home, as he helps build set for "Fiddler".

Dalai Lama, Thunderstorms, and me

2008-10-08T02:19:00.000-07:00

It has been an interesting week. On Saturday I went to see the Dalai Lama. No cameras or cell phones were permitted - so this is all my my notes taken as I sat. I did not have an FM radio (communication gap). I followed along as things happened.

I entered through a large gate and went through security - there were bag and body searches - thoroughly but kindly done. I had a pass, so was able to go upstairs to the "foreigners" section. Seats were already scarce - I ended up sitting about 15 feet from the temple where His Holiness sat but I was blocked by a door from seeing much of him (though I caught a glimpse on his way downstairs at the end). As we came in there was chanting of the Om Mane Pad Me Om (please excuse any transliteration errors). More took their seats and then all stood as he entered. The talk was to be on the Bodhisattva and the Middle Path of Meditation. It seemed that a dialogue was going on /or another person was reading and the Dalai Lama was commenting on the reading. After a bit, and intermittently thereafter, there were call and response type prayers. His voice was strong and he spoke entirely in Tibetan. Large fat pitta were passed out (about 6 in in diameter and about an inch thick). Tibetans near us motioned for us to put the bread aside and wait for the "tea". It came and it was butter tea (yak milk, sugar, and a bit of tea) I was one of the few who liked it. The bread was plain but great dunked in the tea- as the Tibetans did.

Then the Bodhisattva initiation took place. It was quite amazing to participate in and to watch. I had time (total time was about three hours) to watch those near me and some prayed, some talked quietly, and some fiddled (a young monk near me decorated his styrafoam cup with his fingernail!). We donned red bands and placed flower petals inside. Rice was thrown as were white scarves. All was done with reverence and yet in a lighthearted way. At one point, during a prayer, the Dalai Lama hesitated over some words - and then apparently made a joke about it - he has a warm loving laugh! After - there was food - of which we did not partake. I bought a book on the 37 ways of the Bodhisattva to read.

My placement goes well. We are down to just the three women and that is fine. We now have two computers so two can practice their typing at the same time. The Durga festival (which concludes tonight) has continued on - with singing and chanting late into each night. There are also many weddings going on - as this is an auspicious time to be married. October is the time for holidays (there are two more next week). The one I am anticipating is Duwali (Duvali) - the Festival of Lights - near the end of October.

After the Dalai Lama - I got my camera from someone who met us after - I hiked up to the waterfall at Bagshu - and then on to the Shiva Cafe a bit rougher and higher - but I was so glad I went!

Monday another volunteer and I climbed up to the temple at Indernag - it was a good hike but not too much. We also spent an hour with a sadu at a monkey temple on the way down. I am learning that time literally does stand still here. There is not much to do but walk, visit market, read, write and walk some more.

There have also been huge thunderstorms - I do mean huge with lightening and thunder and tremendous rains - Seattlites - think heavier than last January's floods!!! Water runs down steps, lights flicker and the world goes dark. My Monday yoga class took place during such a storm and we could barely see or hear (metal roof). The area is so clear and clean and cool after these storms - though they are considered unusual since the monsoon season has past (thank you global warming!)

I was very tired after Indernag and suffered my first tummy trouble - not sure what it was from but it passed quickly. The full meal of fried foods was not quite so welcome last night - the morning porrage (dalyia) was very good, however.

Several people are journeying this weekend - I am hoping to get a group together to go to Amritsar (the Golden Temple) next weekend. On one hand it feels like I "should" be doing more - but on the other - it is peaceful here and I am happy to not be a tourist - I continue to wear salwar/kameeze all day most days - except for hikes - others shed theirs for western dress right after placement - to each their own. My camera and paper and pen have been good companions. One of the Aussie's is leaving tomorrow - I will miss Sophie - she is a remarkable young woman. Others are leaving also tomorrow and a new group arrives on the 20th - I think.

I miss you at home - mostly to take around and show things to. I would love to take a small plane over these hills and valleys (of course not the high peaks).

I will blog again soon - I will just be with this weekend and see what it brings.(a monkey is climbing past the Internet cafe as I blog....is it a sign?

The Other Side of the Coin

2008-10-02T01:21:00.000-07:00

This week has been more focused on the Tibetan aspect of the area. We have had a talk by a Lama and gone to Norbulingka (a center for Tibetan art and culture). The Lama spoke of loving kindness, compassion and gave an example of his regular day (lots of sitting practice). He traveled extensively with the Dalai Lama for many years before being made head of the center. Norbulingka is a center about an hour out of Dharamshala that teaches young Tibetans the various arts of their culture, including metal and woodworking, and art and applique work. When you go north to McLeodGanj it is like moving into a different world. About half way up this steep, hairpin-turn lined "road" the buildings and people change into Tibetan (houses are yellow- different dress, etc). There were many cool gifts, a beautiful garden full of prayer flags, and our guide described in detail how many years the apprentices study for their art (usually somewhere between 3 and 12 years).

McLeodGanj is a bustling town (especially with the Dalai Lama speaking these two weeks). One can hear every language imaginable and there is a full range of dress, including Indian, western (ie bare arms, tight jeans, etc) and everything in between. There are leporous beggars (missing toes, fingers, etc) begging everywhere. Tons of shops selling absolutely everything. Prices vary considerably and I will do lots of looking before spending too much money. I did fall in love with a small brass bull (from whispering in the statue's ear on Sunday). He is a representation of Rama and if you whisper a wish in his ear while holding the other shut- your wish may be granted - we will see (I can't tell because it is kind of like birthday wishes). I did not find McLeod very spiritual at all. I got my pass to see the Dalai Lama (I will go either tomorrow afternoon or Saturday).

Other side trips have included a trip to a Hindi temple and picnic by a river on Sunday. We honored Shiva and got sacred ash put on our heads. Women cover their heads and all take off their shoes and wash hands, feet and mouth (sort of for those careful of the water). There is a fire there that has been burning for over 500 years. It was very hot but quite beautiful. Huge boulders and fast running water (though the level is quite low for the season). It was quite cold but with the help of the kitchen staff who fed us - I got across - I was glad for my hiking stick!

Also of Hindi interest is that the area is celebrating the 9 day festival of the goddess Durga -goddess of war, power, strength. They worship her every night and on the 9th night they tell the story of Rama's defeat of Ravana with the help of the monkey god. They burn an effigy of Ravana. Special foods are prepared and we had a lunch that included the desert Halwa (cooked wheat, sugar, dried fruit and nuts)- YUM!

Most of the women are off celebrating and after today it looks like we may be down to three - things do change fast around here!. We have another volunteer helping teach computer and the women love that - these three women will probably make good progress in their studies with the smaller class and one-on-one teaching.

On a personal front - I have stayed healthy. I am taking yoga daily - I am the only one who comes regularly. I love the class and Ragu (soft "g" - not like the spagetti sauce!) is going to start Pranayama (breathing exercises) with me on Monday. The food is excellent. I got to help prepare the Naan yesterday, though the cook is quite particular and had to fix mine - it is harder than it looks, especially the slapping between your palms to flatten the dough before putting it in the tandoor. The cook Rakesh says I may try again the next time - I did better on the second one than the first! The tandoor chicken was sooooo tender!

I am wearing western clothes (loose)today - but it feels odd - I actually enjoy the salwar kameeze- except perhaps the scarf which still doesn't stay up - some of the women have told me to pin it, especially the slippery ones. I need to get a cup for the butter tea they serve at the Dalai Lama's teachings - it is boiled so I will definitely take the chance. I am also hoping to hike this weekend - while I enjoy the yoga, I need to move more - though the altitude does take it out of you.

Other things- words are a mix for us of Indian English, British English (like "taking breakfast", Aussie words and Indian food words like curd for yougert, "toned" milk for shelf stable milk - the bagged milk is very "iffy" in my mind. They give us apples, bananas, persimons, pomegranates, limes, tomatoes etc but we wash and peel with due care - the hardest is remembering not to brush teeth in the water - our "safe" bottles of water are ever present and always being filled. Chai (milky sweet/spicy tea) is the only thing we can accept unless we go to McLeod and the restaurants are still iffy there - and there is so much street food and it smells good.

This week has gone faster than the last - I can't believe tomorrow is Friday! I got a fast connection in town - so lots of pictures~!

The First Week is Completed

2008-09-27T04:08:00.000-07:00

It is hard to believe I have been gone a full week.

The days are hot - the evenings quite cool. We had a huge rain shower yesterday - just buckets with thunder, then it was over.

My group is growing - if they all show up - it will be nine now - in about four different levels of learning. I have to do lots of my own preparation to be ready to give them work to do. Monday we will start some basic computer work with them. There are three vols now (one who has been here six weeks already) and another woman besides myself - that will make teaching the levels easiest - though I will be doing the more advanced English (Simple, Continuous, and Perfect tenses - do you remember these in school???)

Tomorrow is a day off and we will go to a temple and have a picnic and play cricket. All of the vols have been invited to a wedding on Wednesday night - how exciting! Last night the women tried on sari - quite a project to get it on but quite beautiful. I am glad we don't have to wear them all the time.

The food is good - I found out mutton is actually goat - and I can eat it with no problem! Sometimes I grow tired of spice three times a day - but then I eat more rice/roti/and yougert to cool it down.

The CCS staff takes wonderful care of us and are full of good information to ease our journey. It is very hard to get used to so many differences.

I took my first yoga class this morning - the teacher asked me to show my version of sun salutation and then we did it his way. There were three of us in a very small room (in a pinch, it would hold maybe eight total mats). We did some sun salutations, then shavasana, then sitting poses, a twist and a brief chant - no ending shavasana (?). I will go again tomorrow - five classes are 1000 Rupees (about $20 US).

Thanks for all your comments and questions.

The pictures are of me in a sari and the house I am living in-this download thing takes quite a while....but pictures are worth so much here to show it reality of it.

In Dharamshala

2008-09-24T04:02:00.000-07:00

Hello everyone:
We were delayed 3 hours in Delhi on Monday but arrived to Dharamshala to a great hairpin turn drive to the CCS house. It is so hard to describe. This is considered a middle-class town but there is little or no plumbing and the gutters are "interesting". The steps are steep. Monkeys roam through the streets, as do cows, dogs, donkeys, kids, etc..
I have an interesting and challenging placement - the women's group is changing. There were several older women who had little English and were just working on writing - they may or may not be staying. We have added two women in their late 20s or so that have good English but want more specialized grammer (so I am studying how to teach verb tenses!).

I love the people - they all recognize us as CCS and great us. I have one salwar kameeze and am having another made for about $30 US.

We are two or three to a room and seven to a bathroom. The food is awesome but spicy. It is plentiful with eggs and rice and vegs for breakfast. Usually roti (flat bread) and some curry and fresh cucumbers, radish, and tomato. There is no chocolate and little sweets - though we are having ice cream and tandoor and naan tonight for a going away dinner for the people transferring out.
Everything is so strange - all preconceptions must be left behind. Clean is a non word here - sweaty in the day- cold at night...
I don't seem to be able to read regular books and have determined that my mind is satisfied and full and I don't need any escape! Please feel free to post comments and ask questions.
I am slightly overwhelmed and don't know where to start. I am hoping to include a few pictures here.

I am in Delhi!

2008-09-21T04:14:00.000-07:00

Wow- long long flight but Cathay Pacific was great - space to move, decent food, etc.

Hong Kong airport is amazing in its modern, clean, yet so foreign.

Arrived on time in Delhi - no "real" customs inspection. Off on absolutely wild 45 minute ride to the CCS house. Remember they drive "British" - keeping to the left - sort of - cars, buses, bikes, c0ws, goats, people and every other conceivable living creature vies for space - horns are a constant - and it seems only by luck one survives. The contrasts are enormous - with schools and neat hotels side-by-side with shacks, garbage, vendors of all sorts - ads in English and Hindi about modern stuff like bank accounts and being a modern "dad". Horns are day and night and seem to be blown just for the "rule" - Seattlites beware!

Light Indian lunch awaited with roti (bread), some dahl (lentils), yougert, and cucumbers and tomatoes. Dinner was chicken curry and more of the above - plentiful - actually more than enough. People arrived all day and night and there was paperwork.

Between was shopping - a wonderful young woman at the clothing shop helped me to coordinate an outfit - just one for now that cost $1200 R - about $25 US.

I fell asleep at 8:30 p.m. in a small bedroom - shared with one other on her way also to Dharamsala on Monday.

Day 2 was talks and more orientation. Lunch was at a South Indian restaurant - great food, very very spicy at times, sorely lacking in protein...lots of rice and bread.

It has been very humid also today - will need a second shower before bed (yes - shower here is a "real" one).

I have tried to download a picture but can get the computer to read my photo card...sigh...

My mind and eyes are full - I am writing all of it down. Contrasts - surprises around every corner.

More soon.

D-Day is Here!

2008-09-18T13:14:00.000-07:00

Well, after many, many months - the day has arrived. Goodbyes have been said; many meals consumed with friends, and lots of hugs all around. Yoga practice has been a precious rock for me as I have prepared for this time.

Now it is down to me and Cliff and Duffy and one last afternoon together.

I am all packed- such a ruckus but the weights and sizes are good and all is locked and ready for transport. First to LA (2 hours), then Hong Kong (14.5 hours of actual flight time), then on to Delhi (another 5 hours). I will arrive Saturday September 20th at about 12:30 p.m. Delhi time (about 11:30 p.m. on the 19th Seattle time - about 13.5 hours difference - the math is boggling!)

I am mostly nervous about the "little" stuff - like my checked bag getting there with me - especially the transfer in LA between domestic and international terminals...then customs at Delhi. I would have liked another book for the long flight but weight and size of carry-on prohibited (the 9" part was the hardest - but the back pack squooshes).

Thanks to everyone who has supported me in my journey before my journey. I promise to keep blogging and hopefully inserting pictures (picture is again from Gina at Silverhand Photography!)

Please, please, feel free to comment or email during my time away. You are all special to me and I am looking forward to adding new "specials" to my group of friends over the next three months.

Blessings, love and hugs

Syrinda

Getting Closer

2008-09-10T08:53:00.000-07:00

Well, I have my placement for Dharamsala. I will be working with the Gamru Women's Group - a group of 40-50 year old women - I will be working with ongoing projects, teaching basic computer skills, and some English language work (any or all of the above and whatever else they may want).

I am actively meeting others from the group starting at the same time online through emails. We are quite a diverse group (from B.C., Australia, etc.)

I have also set my reservations in Japan for the closing week of my trip - I wanted to stay in a Ryokan (kind of like a Japanese B& B- with tatami, futon, and bath)...they are also quite less expensive. I have found one near the Ginza district - centrally located - though I will stay the last night in one out by the Narita Airport - to make departure less hectic.

I am packing, and repacking.

My last day of work was Thursday the 4th and then I went straight into the Driftwood Players 50th gala - it was a good time had by all. Picture is of me running the spotlight for the show! I love this group!

I am trying to take daily yoga classes - I really do enjoy how they center me and clear my mind from all the "stuff" it accumulates - and there is a lot to accumulate in these closing days.

I am happy that my daily "to do" lists get shorter and shorter.

Hope to blog with a photo at least once more before departure next Thursday.

18 Days and Counting

2008-09-01T13:12:00.000-07:00

Well, September has arrived. For everyone who has "subscribed" this will be a good test. My den is full of malaria medicine, books, travel guides, etc. all waiting to be stowed and weighed. I have gotten a list from Cross Cultural Solutions of the 14 others who will be joining me for various amounts of time in Dharamsala (some are from Australia, B.C., New Zealand, and all around the U.S.) Airline keeps me on my toes, tweeking my schedule. My last day at work is Sept. 4th. My theater group (Driftwood Players) has their 50th gala on Friday; and then Saturday is full of a corgi meeting and a friend's birthday party. Sunday the 7th is mine alone - I will do nothing - no packing, no buying, no nothing....then back up and running on Monday the 8th to get ready - probably a first packing for weight and necessity.

So, for all of you "watching" - here we go. I can add pictures - Thanks to Gina for the photos she has taken - I will add with the posts. Again, this picture is courtesy of Silverhand Photography!

Please let me know if you have any trouble seeing/receiving/commenting on the blog.

Wish me well.

2008-08-04T19:09:00.000-07:00

Well, the news is out - actually has been for a month now. I am going to India! 8 weeks in Dharamsala and 4 in Delhi with Cross Cultural Solutions.

With four weeks to go til my last day of work, I am still not "excited". There is so much to do for the trip and at home to get my husband ok to solo and myself ready to fly. I make and remake lists - try and find more minutes in a day and still have lists and lists. Maybe by the end of August, I won't feel so much like I am getting nowhere. Because I am...

I actually look forward most to being someplace new and with a group of people who have little or no "history" on me. Who will I be in this new place... These people have never known be with excess weight, family and friends, etc. All the baggage one accumulates in over 50 years...

So here's to "leap and the net will appear"...

Moving on

2008-06-24T20:06:00.000-07:00

So, it has been a few weeks. More progress on traveling front. Soon my intentions will be "public" and then I can 'go wild'. Finally, the weather is behaving like summer here in Seattle. There is so much to do - between yard, pictures to organize, dog stuff, work stuff, etc....I have been really wiped out. Took some time just for me today and watch some GL and vegged out. Somehow this is hard for me to do; I actually stayed within my low points values also - need to get ready for a light dinner out with a girlfriend. So, next Monday is the big day - hopefully- though I have been ready to postpone til next Thursday, if need be. Getting tired again- not sure what is going on....off to walk the dog.

My First Post

2008-06-01T19:31:00.000-07:00

Hello: This is pretty much a test post to see how it looks and to see if others can find it. After certain things are taken care of, I will post more about what is going on for me.

Stay tuned for more.